Table Of Contents
- 1 Epoxy Grout
- 1.1 Best Epoxy Grout: Laticrete – Spectralock Pro Grout
- 1.2 Introduction
- 1.3 Best Epoxy Grout:
- 1.4 Other Notable Brands
- 1.5 Buying Resources
- 1.6 Epoxy Grout
- 1.6.1 Epoxy Grout F.A.Q
- 1.6.1.1 Question: Does Epoxy Grout Need To Be Sealed?
- 1.6.1.2 Question: is epoxy grout good for showers?
- 1.6.1.3 Question: Can I Grout Natural Stone With Epoxy Grout?
- 1.6.1.4 Question: What Is Epoxy Grout?
- 1.6.1.5 Question: where is epoxy grout used?
- 1.6.1.6 Question: What are the minimum and maximum width grout joints for Spectralock® epoxy grouts?
- 1.6.1.7 Question: Does Epoxy Grout NEed CLeaning?
- 1.6.1 Epoxy Grout F.A.Q
- 1.7 Best Grout Sealer Conclusion
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Epoxy Grout
BEST EPOXY GROUT FOR 2021
Epoxy Grout – The Wolf In Sheep’s Clothing
Due to popular demand from my readers, I have created this best epoxy grout buyer’s guide to help you with your next grouting project. Whether you’ll be using it for glass tile or wanting to know the advantages vs cement grout, this guide is here to answer your questions.
Like many tiling products, tile epoxy grout tends to be another product that’s plagued with misinformation being spread about it online – I aim to set the record straight with my experience using it in a professional capacity.
Learn about everything you need to know from a professional tile setter that uses it on a daily basis and do the project right the first time!
This Guide Will:
- Explain What Epoxy Grout Is ✓
- Show The Best Epoxy Grout ✓
- Share Tips On How To Use Epoxy Grout ✓
- Show The Advantages Over Regular Grout ✓
Professional Tiler’s Pick ✓
Ideal For All Applications – Indoor/Outdoor, Wet and Immersed Tiles
Best Epoxy Grout: Laticrete – Spectralock Pro Grout
Epoxy Grout Suitable For:
• Glass Tile + Mosaics
Spectralock Pro is a fully waterproof and stain resistant product that’s easier to apply over other products and suitable for use in wet areas.
It’s safe for both domestic and commercial use and features the best properties overall for every day and most common uses including bathrooms and commercial kitchens with stringent hygiene requirements. It is the king of grouts and much better than a regular grout in general.
My name Carl and I’ve been working as a professional tile setter for over 25 years.
I’ve been working with these products for most of those years and have seen the product go from total nightmare to the well refined and workable product that it is today. I’ve also developed a number of tricks to make working with it much easier.
Today I want to share my experiences with you and help your next home improvement task go easier.
Introduction
• Ease Of Use
• The Quality of the End Result
I have been using an epoxy grout since it first appeared on the market (or atleast my area of the United States) in the early 90’s. Back then it was like trying to paint with bubblegum and washing it off was like removing tar with tissue paper.
Imagine doing those things.
Got a clear image in your head? Good.
Cause that’s seriously how hard it was.
And the only way to fix the problem is by tearing it all up and starting over.
So it earned itself a reputation in the United States and the world as a product to run away from and for good reason. Home improvement stores rarely sold it as well and was considering a highly specialist product. Thankfully, they’re much better now and constant improvements have made these products much easier to work with nowadays – however,
Epoxy Grout Is Still Difficult To Use If You Don’t Know The Technique.
Don’t worry, I’ll share my top grouting tips and the best grout float to use in this article 🙂
Best Overall Choice
Professional-Grade Tile Grout In A Large Range Of Colors.
Best Epoxy Grout:
Laticrete – SPectralock Pro Grout
Spectralock Pro comes in 3-parts and is one of the easier products to work with. It has a workable pot-life (how fast it hardens in the bucket), is easy to spread onto tiles and can be washed off tiles without too much headache.
I use this stuff in showers as it adds another level of waterproofing and looks like new for years. I have it in my own shower and the grout looks like I installed it last week. (Installed 3 years ago.)
Pro's
• Color-fast – Will not loose its color thanks to its chemical resistance and its also uniform . No more patchy grout where one part is darker than another.
• Large Range Of Colors – Spectralock Pro has one of the biggest selection of colors to suit everyone’s design and taste.
• Stain Resistant – Don’t be afraid of spilling wine or any spills in the kitchen – it all wipes off! Try doing that with regular grout.
• Non-sag, crack resistant – It won’t sag during curing or crack after it’s set. Meaning you’ll have full and uniform grout-lines unlike traditional cement grout.
• Looks Like Regular Grout – Unlike some other products that are gritty or look “plastic”, Spectralock looks like regular cement grout and provides a beautiful finish.
Con's
• 3 Part Epoxy Grout – It comes in 3 parts which makes it more complicated over 2 part products that have the color pre-mixed in. Not a deal breaker by any means but more care is required.
• Labor Intensive – It requires a lot more effort to work in comparison to regular cement grout. Allow yourself more time to install it.
Other Notable Brands
Laticrete is not the only brand that makes great epoxy grouts. If Laticrete isn’t available in your country, check out some alternatives. I have worked with them all and find their results comparable.
The following brands make excellent products:
- Tecknokolla (Sky Colors Range®)
- Kerakoll (Fugalite Bio®)
- Mapei ( Kerapoxy®)
- Sika (Sikatile®)
Due to my readers being from all over the world, I cannot provide information on where to buy each product. Your best bet would be to google search the product and see if you get any results from your country. If you don’t find any, move onto the next product. Eventually you should find one that is available to you.The multitude of companies in this list will mean that one should cover your corner of the globe.
If you need more help, leave a comment and I’ll track something down for you.
Buying Resources
To help you with the buying journey, I’ve found a few resources you can use to ensure you buy the right color and amount.
Color Chart
The Epoxy Grout Color Chart will show you the large range of colors available that you can use for your tile installation. You will find as many colors and shades as regular grout, making it suitable for any tile selection.
These colors come in packets that are mixed into the A+B compounds. Amazon sells a large range of color packets alongside the A+B compound that comes are a kit. Check Out Available Colors.
In case you are wondering, I mainly use Bright White, Smoke Grey and Slate Grey in my work. That’s because white grout, light grey grout and dark grey grouts are most common and popular for most types of tiles.
Epoxy Grout Amount Calculator
The Amount Calculator will show you how to calculate how much you’ll have to get for your project.
You’ll have to know the measurements of the area you’ll be grouting and the thickness of the tiles, so make sure you have a tape measure handy!
It doesn’t have to be 100% precise – we ain’t building rockets here – but it’s always good to have some left over instead of running out!
How To Buy Epoxy Grout Online
To prevent you from going off and buying everything like the Terminator here – not knowing what you should get exactly – I’ll give you a hand.
The base compound (Part A+B) is a filler powder compound and a liquid hardener. Those two are the grout itself, and you then buy a color pigment (Part C) to transform it into whatever you wish.
That’s all you need. Two Separate Products In Your Cart.
Quick Tip: Mixing Ratio of Parts A+B to Part C
1:1
For Every Pound of Material – You Require A Pound Of Color. Easy!
Tools Required For Grouting
A full Urethane Grout Float like this one from Troxell works great for this task. It has the proper density to work the grout and the stiffer edge effectively scrapes tiles clean off the excess.
- Small Spiral Mixer – Attach this to a power drill to effectively mix all the components. This ensures the grout is thoroughly mixed. I highly recommend this form of mixing the grout over anything else. Manual mixing with a margin trowel should be avoided as it can’t mix the individual components properly – leading to patchy results.
- Plain Bucket – One or two plain 5 gallon buckets are great for holding your clean water for washing up. You don’t need to be picky too picky with which kind you select, any kind of sturdy bucket will do.
- Grout Sponge – Two grout sponges for cleaning up the grout during wash up phase. Epoxy grouts are very messy and the key to a haze free finish is removing as much of it during the washing phase. Make sure to properly rinse your grout sponge during the washing up phase.
- Microfiber Towels – These will be your secret weapon. Microfiber towels have been discovered by tilers to be extremely effective at cleaning off epoxy haze during the washing up stage. After it’s been wiped down, make sure to give the tiles a buff with the microfiber towel and it should remove the haze before it forms. For best results, use a couple and always have a dry one on hand.
- Laticrete Washing Up Kit – If you are worried about washing up, Laticrete has the solution for you. It’s especially developed to help clean off epoxy and helps prevent the dreaded epoxy haze from forming on your tiles. It is a powder that you add to your washing up water and couldn’t make the job any be easier to you.
- Nitrile Gloves – These are an absolute must! Epoxy grouts harden like rock and stick to skin like nothing you have ever experienced before – trust me. If you are going to take anything away from my guide, it should be this at least. Wear strong nitrile gloves when working with this grout and avoid contact with the skin. Some people also find they are allergic to epoxy, so be safe, wrap some rubber round’ your hands and avoid the hardship I endured.
Epoxy Grouting Tips
- Epoxy grout sets up very quickly – it’s easier to apply it to a small section at a time and wash it off properly before continuing to apply more.
- If it’s your first time, don’t make the whole batch at once – until you get comfortable with working with these products, it’s better to make a small amount and use it up. That way you will not waste the whole amount if you have a problem applying or washing the epoxy grout.
- Wash off any grout that gets onto other surfaces/tiles – once epoxy grout dries, nothing short of an angle grinder will get it off (No Joke). So make sure to wash off everything while it’s still wet!
- Use your grout sponge to form the grout – epoxy grout is stiff enough to allow it to be formed easily with the sponge during the washing up. Use the sponge to easily get your grout lines uniform and neat.
- Use your grout float to scrape off excess – it is much easier to use your epoxy grout float to scrape off the excess off the tiles instead of leaving it to the washing up phase.
Epoxy Grout
Benefits
Some Benefits Include:
- Easier Maintenance of Grout
- Longer Lasting Color
- Higher Degree of Waterproofing
- Higher Level Of Hygiene
Epoxy Grout F.A.Q
In case your question has not been answered, please leave a comment below! I’ll try answer it to the best of my knowledge and your question might be featured in an updated version of this Epoxy Grout Buyer’s Guide.
Question: Does Epoxy Grout Need To Be Sealed?
Answer: Epoxy grout does not need to be sealed as it already carries all the properties of a grout sealer plus many more.
In addition, Epoxy grout has less than 0.5% absorbance and nearly 100% waterproof – It will not absorb any grout sealer.
The only sealer that should be applied is if you are using natural stone tiles. In that situation you require a tile sealer and pre-seal the tiles before installing them.
Question: is epoxy grout good for showers?
Answer: Epoxy grout is the best grout to use in showers. Showers are a very wet area and result in high levels of humidity. An epoxy grout used in the shower can help make the entire installation more waterproof and also prevent mold and mildew from growing on it.
Do note that regular cleaning will still required as a layer of soap scum and bodily matter can form on top of the grout, creating a layer for mold to grow on. A wipe with a shower cleaner should be sufficient.
Question: Can I Grout Natural Stone With Epoxy Grout?
Answer: Generally, the answer is no. All natural stone tiles are created/treated differently and have various degrees of porosity. Highly porous stone can absorb the epoxy resin through the edges of the stone tile, leaving a picture frame effect where the outer edges are darker. This color change is irremediable and will stay there for the life of the tile. If you want to use epoxy on natural stone, it is highly recommended you apply a quality tile sealer to all sides of the tile before installation and test it first before proceeding. Without prior testing, you may end up with a multi-thousand dollar tile installation that is ruined forever.
Question: how to remove epoxy grout haze
Answer: Epoxy grout haze can be removed from tile using an epoxy grout haze remover. Stonetech Epoxy Grout Haze Remover is made in the United States and designed for situations where hard to remove stains need to be cleaned from the surface of a tile installation. It is suitable for use with natural stone tiles, porcelain/ceramic tiles and masonry.
Question: What Is Epoxy Grout?
Answer: Epoxy grout is a product consisting of multiple parts, mixed together to create it. Epoxy is made from multiple resins, filler powder and a hardener. If the resins do not have a color, a colored powder can be added to the mix to create a colored epoxy grout.
Question: where is epoxy grout used?
Answer: Epoxy grout is used in high traffic and areas required high standards of hygiene. In the commercial world, places like hospitals and commercial kitchens greatly benefit as it is less likely to stain and grow bacteria on it. This is because it is less porous than cementitious regular grout and will not harbor any microscopic life-forms.
In homes, epoxy is commonly used in showers and bathrooms as it grants the homeowner easy maintenance and a look that looks “like new” for years. Kitchen back splashes also benefit as it won’t absorb cooking oil and related stains from food preparation.
Also, since its very smooth, its a common grout to use with glass tile and fancy mosaics where the finished look has to be perfect. Gritty or porous regular grout would detract from the overall look, so epoxy is the best option. Dazzle effects like glitter can also be added to the epoxy to maximize the “wow factor” and really set off the glass tile.
Question: What are the minimum and maximum width grout joints for Spectralock® epoxy grouts?
Answer: The range of Spectralock® epoxy grouts can accommodate grout joints from 1/16″ (1.5mm) all the way up to 1/2″ (12.7mm) wide. Please note that since these grouts contain sand, narrower grout lines like 1/16 may appear coarser when compared to unsanded grouts.
Question: Does Epoxy Grout NEed CLeaning?
Answer: Epoxy grout does still require cleaning. Contrary to popular belief, epoxy grout is not a self cleaning miracle product and still requires some love and care in order for it to remain looking it’s best.
The misconception stems from the fact that epoxy does not allow anything to penetrate it, since it’s waterproof. This means that nothing can grow inside of it or on it’s surface.
However, a layer of dirt and debris can form and sit on top and mold can grow on that. In order to prevent this happening, a quick wipe once a week with a cleaning agent and a rag can wash away any build-up and keep your tile installation looking like new for years to come.
Pro Tip: I have found that darker shades of epoxy are less prone to staining or having their color effected over lighter colors like light grey. Light grey grout shows the dirt sitting on it much easier. For those with pets, a medium or dark grey epoxy grout is reccomended as it won’t show the yellow urine stains like a light grey would.
Best Grout Sealer Conclusion
Spectralock Pro Epoxy Grout by Laticrete is a professional grout suited to most types of tiles and has earned a solid reputation from professional tile setters and DIY enthusiasts.
This epoxy grout comes in a myriad of colors just like regular grout, is crack and stain resistant and can be used in most situations – including inside swimming pools.
Like all epoxy grouts, it is more expensive in comparison to regular cement grout however the benefits that come with it’s use are great.
Question/: can epoxy grout be used with 1/16” grout lines? I heard there are some granules in it requiring 1/8” or wider for best installation.
Hi Sharon,
Thanks for the great question.
Yes, epoxy grouts can be used with smaller grout lines like 1/16. I have done it many times before and it works great. Spectralock Epoxy also supports 1/16 groutlines. Here is a link to a question regarding the subject from their website.
I hope that helps.
I know you mentioned that there would be a picture frame effect if using epoxy grout on natural stone. I have already placed the granite tiles.
Can I still seal the tile and have the epoxy still stick?
If not, would the picture frame effect look really bad using white grout with 4” black and white granite placed in a checker board?
Thank you!
I am looking to use aquarium pebble gravel and a clear Epoxy grout to fill in cracks in my concrete patio in the back of my house. Will this be an appropriate and successful use of the grout you’ve talked about in this article?
Hi Gail,
Thank you for visiting and for the interesting question!
Unfortunately I cannot provide you with some proper guidance as epoxy grout is not designed for concrete repair. In theory it should be tough enough but it’s not built for such stresses. You’ll be wanting a specialist concrete repair product like this one. It’s designed to repair cracks up to 1/2” (13 mm) in concrete.
If you have very large cracks in the concrete, that could indicate foundation issues either from earthquakes or poor preparation of the concrete slab that led it to slump and crack over time. In that instance, not even a concrete repairer will do much good.
If you like you can always try the epoxy and make it pretty with the aquarium gravel, I just can’t say how long it will last.
Hope that gave you something to go on, sorry I couldn’t have been of more help.
Carl.
Do epoxy grout need to fill up the whole gap between tile, how about if the tile thickness is large (say, 10mm) and the tile gap is only 2mm?
Hi Desmond,
Thanks for the question.
Yes, you need to fill in the whole gap to the top of the tile with epoxy grout. 10mm is actually a very common tile thickness and will require the gap to be fully filled. Even tiles that are 20mm thick need to be fully filled.
Hope that answers your question!
Hi Carl, this was a very good article.
I have used the Spectralock epoxy grout that you recommend on my shower floor and it has worked great. I had previously used a regular grout to repair the shower floor but it couldn’t handle being submerged and didn’t even last a week.
Do you have a recommendation for an epoxy grout for small repairs? I have another shower and I need to repair a small chip in the existing floor grout. I’m hoping there is a squeeze tube or smaller tub I can buy for this purpose.
Thanks,
Robb
Hi Robb,
Thank you for the comment and compliment on the article, I truly appreciate it.
I’m pleased to hear the Spectralock worked for your shower floor! You now have the very best grout protecting that surface and you’ll be happy with the results for a long time yet.
Unfortunately there are no small packages of epoxy grout that are made suitable for small repairs. If you are up to it, I’d highly recommend you scratch out all the floor grout in that shower and regrout the whole lot with epoxy. That way, you’ll be sure you have fixed the floor properly and no grout will be falling out in a few months.
Let me know if you have any further questions and sorry I couldn’t have been of more help.
Regards,
Carl.
Is there any reason not to apply epoxy grout with a grout bag or caulk-style applicator (like this: https://www.contractorsdirect.com/rubi-grout-joint-gun)?
Hi Diana,
Interesting question!
Those types of applicators are designed for sanded grout and grouting vertical stone surfaces. Sanded grout is much less sticky and can actually be forced through those tools.
Epoxy grout needs to be applied with a float as it gets pushed and compacted into the grout joint, something those tools can’t do. You’ll end up with an uneven mess in your grout lines which will be a nightmare to smooth and form with your sponge. It will also not bond to the tile properly and may fall out. Remember that the grout float not only compacts the epoxy into the joints, it also smooths and forms it into uniform lines.
Hope that answers your question,
Take care,
Carl
I WANT TO USE EPOXY GROUT TO SEAL IN A PORCELAIN OVER STEEL PHOTO TILE THAT IS RECESSED INTO GRANITE—SUGGESTIONS, PLEASE. THANK YOU
Hi Margaret,
It’s nice to hear from you and thanks for visiting my website.
With some precautions, I would say you can definitely seal the tile with epoxy grout. If it’s possible, I would do a tiny spot test somewhere on the granite (maybe the stonemason has an off-cut you could try) and see if the epoxy leaves any staining. Alternatively, I would suggest using some masking tape and carefully covering the area of the granite near the tile. Simply leave a gap around the tile and mask off the rest. That way, when you go to grout it, any excess will not touch the granite and you can simply peel the tape away.
Main thing to look out for is whether the granite has been sealed. If it’s the raw edge, it might absorb some of the epoxy and create a hazing effect underneath the surface. I would run that by the stonemason and ask them whether the recessed area will be sealed – doesn’t need to be the whole area, just the lip where the grout will be.
I hope that has given you some guidance and I haven’t created more confusion.
Thanks and kind regards,
Carl.
My tiler is considering using Kerapoxy CQ by Mapei. Any thoughts on this product.
Hi Elise,
Kerapoxy is a quality epoxy grout, you shouldn’t have any issues with it. I’ve used it in the past and it was similar to other quality epoxy grouts. If your tiler has used it in the past and is happy to go with that one, then there shouldn’t be any issues.
Thank you so much, Carl, for your professional insights and offer to share them.
No problem Elise.
Thank you for visiting my site and sharing some kind words, I really appreciate it.
– Carl
Hello Carl. Very informative article. I want my tile installer to use epoxy grout on my honed large format tiles 24×48 inch on bathroom and shower floor and small 4 inch square wall tiles in bathroom. Can’t decide between epoxy spectra pro laticrete or epoxy Ardex line. What would be most durable and stain resistant. Does it matter? I know big difference in price. What specific line should I use.
Thanks
Cathy
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for visiting and asking such a great question.
Both Spectralock (made by Laticrete) and Ardex Epoxy grouts are top tier, professional grade grouts. Both companies are highly respected by professional tilers and make reliable products for the trade. Performance wise, I’d wager they are very similar. In terms of pricing, that varies depending on which area you live in. Some states will have Ardex or Laticrete cheaper or more expensive so unfortunately pricing alone cannot be used as deciding factor.
I’d suggest you ask your installer which epoxy grout they would prefer using as they may have prior experience with either one and feel more comfortable using them. Another deciding factor can be which brand of adhesive they are using to install your tiles. Some manufacturers claim you can only use their brand of grout and waterproofing when using their adhesive. If your installer prefers Ardex or Laticrete, then that alone could be your deciding factor.
Sorry to muddy the waters up with more jargon but hopefully it’ll help. At the end of the day, whichever one you or your installer chooses will work great.
Thanks,
Carl.
Glad I found this site. I’ve done custom tile work since 1980. Doing my last house to Age In Place in. Doing a handicap roll-in shower(a very small low Corian threshold), in a Japanese theme house(natural look). I power planed the floor joints to get the slope to drain. Used 3/4″ Advantach forced & tied down with 3″ HeadLOK 2 7/8 in. Spider-Drive Heavy screws. The pan is formed in place fiberglass (I did this in 1985 for friends from the “Boat world”, after I tested Epoxy thinset. Which I laid the whole bathroom fiber-glassed floor(he did the fiberglass) in. I have done the walls in the forest green marble. I have one layer of Epoxy thinset down to get more slope(not cement). I’m looking at using a pebble look pool matte glazed porcelain mosaic tile for the floor. I’ve never used epoxy grouts. I’ve tried to find out whether you can “work it” to get the “Finish” like regular grouts? As in, is there some fine powder in the filler to get a smooth finish that you can do even with sanded grout, to stay cleaner? As the idea of this house, is little to no maintenance. Plus how easily does it blend/tie in to earlier worked grout, as you work the floor?
Hi Carolyn,
Yes, you can work epoxy grout like a regular grout while you are washing up. It can be smoothed out and it looks like regular unsanded grout. It’s nice and smooth and not gritty. I believe you’d be happy with it and it’s the ultimate in “low maintenance”.
Thanks for visiting!
I have a river rock shower floor that is about 10 years old. I have recently noticed that there are some hairline cracks in the grout. My husband and I are trying to decide what the best way to repair this would be. We like the idea of the epoxy grout but would it work with the river rock floor? Do we have to cut out the old grout or would we be able to add a thin layer over the cracks?
Thanks,
Heidi
Hi Heidi,
Unfortunately there is no easy way to fix your issue. The hairline cracking is likely due to the floor moving and creating those cracks. If you want to regrout the whole thing, you will need to remove atleast 1/4 of an inch of the old grout which in your case, will be an absolute nightmare due to the pebble rocks. As professional opinion would be to either leave it alone, or remove all the pebbles and retile it – it’d literally be faster than regrouting those pebbles.
Alternatively, you can mix up a small amount of epoxy grout and apply it to the cracks – it may stick or it may not. Really depends on how much of that epoxy gets into the cracks. That’s the quick and dirty method but it’s not guaranteed. As I said, sadly there’s no miracle cure in this situation 🙁
Hope you manage to get it to a state you’re happy with!
Hey Carl-
thanks for the informative article. I have a unique situation in a second home in Mexico. Flat roof deck about 150 sq/m, travertine 16″ x 16″, 1/8″ grout line with 4″ travertine cove. Travertine has never been sealed, nor grout, grout never properly hydrated. Installation was actually pretty good in regards to pitch, no bird baths
Due to not being there full time, and not following my directions to install a full membrane, the travertine was installed without membrane on concrete.resulting in water leaks into the house. It’s was complicated to determine exactly were the water was coming from due to roof design. Anyway after several water tests it was clearly established that water was coming thru the grout lines and possibly to a much lower extent thru the tile itself. Due to expense of complete removal I am heavily leaning on the following system to fix the problem and would like your critic/suggestions.
Proposed procedure:
Clean surface then apply a high quality sealer, thinking Laticrete heavy duty sealer, water based or Laticrete Heavy duty Sealer Exterior solvent based. suggestions ?
The travertine is honed with a good open pour structure. This is really where my questions lie. I want to avoid picture framing.
Saw cut ALL grout lines with a Skil Medusaw to 3/16″
Re-grout with Spectra Lock Pro Premium Epoxy Grout.
Silicone plane change at cove tile
The 10k question:
Can I avoid picture framing on travertine with a properly applied sealer prior to saw cutting new grout lines ?
or should I seal after cutting new wider grout lines prior to epoxy grouting ? Realistically it seems nearly impossible to seal tile edges after saw cutting in place tile.
Testing will happen prior to committing to a system, thoughts appreciated.
Regards,
Steve
Hi Steve,
Sounds like a very good plan considering the circumstances.
Unfortunately there is no guarantee that any sealer will prevent picture-framing but considering the alternative, it’s worth a shot. I would first remove the grout and then seal. This will help the sealer penetrate the sides of the travertine rather than the grout (which is getting removed anyway). If you can, try at least 3 coats of sealer as well.
Also I have to mention the unfortunate truths that any stone is not waterproof and whilst your epoxy will prevent water going through it, the travertine will still allow water through it. The sealer may prevent this if it’s truly penetrate the stone and protecting it but I’m concerned about the long term. If you stay on top of it and reseal atleast once a year, hopefully that’ll keep it watertight.
Hope that helps in any way, sorry you’re in such a situation.
Good luck and I hope you don’t get picture-framing!
Hi Carl –
Couple questions for you that I thought you may be able to help provide me some insight:
1) Have you experienced yellowing with the white grout from Spectralock? If so – how is it fixed? I need a white or very very very light gray for my master shower and prefer epoxy due to the water resistance but it would kill me to have it turn yellow…
2) Have you worked with Custom Building Products CEG lite epoxy grout and is it good? The company has a color (cool white) that I did a grout color test with my tile that I liked better than other colors I tested.
Hi Anne,
Unfortunately I don’t have enough experience with white epoxy grout to provide you with a clear cut decision. I don’t see my work on a long term basis so I can’t truthfully say whether one grout with yellow or not. Technically, neither of them should go white but I would call the helplines of those two companies and ask them whether their epoxy can yellow. I don’t think either of them would, but I’d hate to steer you in the wrong direction.
Sorry I couldn’t be of help.
Hi Carl,
Thank you for the informative and easy to read article on epoxy grout ! Our new home has plans for white grout in the master bath and kitchen, so I wanted our builder to use epoxy grout. However, he is planning to use Prism, saying it is also stain resistant. Is the Prism grout as good as epoxy grout ?
Hi Julianne,
Thank you for your comment, I greatly appreciate it!
Whilst I have not used Prism grout on any project, I know that it’s classed as a high performance cement grout, rather than an epoxy. I’d say it’s not as resilient or hard-wearing as epoxy grout but the manufacturer does promote it’s stain-resistance and it doesn’t require a grout sealer either.
I’d say it’s almost as good as epoxy but it’s more of a hybrid between regular cement grout and an epoxy.
If the price difference is big enough, and if you’re builder is confident it’ll provide the stain resistance and easy maintenance that you require, you should be fine to go with it. You can always test it before committing to installing it everywhere in the house. Mix up a small batch and see how it reacts to common household stains and whether you can wipe them off without discoloring the grout.
Hope that helps somewhat, sorry I couldn’t give you first hand experience of Prism grout.
I need to replace the grout in my shower floor in the area that we usually stand – I have repaired it numerous times using the original grout used in installation, but over time eventually comes out again. I would like trying epoxy grout but was wondering if I can add my own colored powdered grout mix ( rather than the colorant in the kit) to the other 2 steps – the hardener and the resin to ensure I have the same color since I am only doing a small area.
Hi Nancie,
Whilst your theory is sound, I cannot provide you with a concrete answer as this is something I have never done before. We don’t know what’s inside the colorant packs that the manufacturer makes, it very could contain an agent that interacts with the resin and hardener that allows it to achieve the proper strength and result. You can always try it if you wish, but I can’t endorse it.
If it was me, I’d remove all the grout on the floor and grout the entire thing with the full epoxy kit. That way your entire shower floor has the added benefits of epoxy; strength, stain resistance, and color uniformity. Not to mention you’ll never need to use a grout sealer. It’ll be done once and properly.
If you need help with grout removal, I have countless guides on grout removal on my site.
Thank you for visiting and providing an engaging question for me and fellow readers.
Hello. Wondering if you have ever used epoxy grout on a Lexan or ABS sheeting substrate? I emailed the manufacturer of SpectraLock, and they don’t have specs on whether it will stick.
TIA 🙂
Leanne.
Hi Leanne,
I have used an epoxy grout as an adhesive when tiling showers with plastic sides. The epoxy was actually suitable to be used as an adhesive and grout! All I did before installation was sand the plastic with some rough sand paper to give the epoxy a rougher surface to cling to. The epoxy I used was Mapei Kerapoxy and it was the recommended product from the company that made the shower. I haven’t used Spectralock as an adhesive but I imagine it should be suitable, however if Latricrete don’t say anything, you may not receive any manufacturer guarantee in case the product fails.
If you can track down Mapei in your area, you should be able to use that. Alternatively, you can risk it and use Spectralock, I just can’t comment on whether they’ll honor a warranty in case you decide to claim it.
Hope that helps,
Carl.
Wonderful article!!! I would like to add that if you put bucket of epoxy grout in a bucket of ice you will double the working time. In addition I have needed to save a small amount for the next day so I put it in a deep freeze. Got it out 12 hours later and was able to use it. It’s been 10 years and no problem.
Hi Kathy!
Thank you very much for the excellent tips! I guess an old dog can learn new tricks 🙂
I will be sure to try that out next time I use epoxy. I’m so used to going fast I never stopped to think if cooling it would slow down the curing process. You’re officially my favorite commentor on my site for providing such a great comment and tip.
Many thanks for visiting and sharing your knowledge with us.
Hi Carl.
I’m tiling my garage which will serve a dual purpose of car parking and an amateur woodworking shop. I’m trying to decide if epoxy grout would be the way to go, as there’s always a concern about car oils and what not leaking. I don’t plan to do any car maintenance in the garage, as I live in Texas and can just do that in my driveway.
Any thoughts on what you’d recommend? BTW, my garage is about 525 sq. ft., and with the added expense of epoxy grout I’m not sure if it would be worth it. If epoxy isn’t your recommendation, any thoughts on Spectra Lock 1 or Mapei Ultracolor FA?
Your input is much appreciated.
Hi Brian,
I’d save the epoxy grout for the kitchen and roll with a standard cement grout for your garage. As you said, the added expense is not worth it in that area. The occasional oil spot can be easily cleaned up with some degreaser and get lost in the overall size of the floor.
I admittedly don’t have too much experience with these grouts. They sit in the middle between standard cement grouts and epoxy both in performance and price. They are trickier to use over standard grout but if you don’t spread out too much before you wash, you should be okay. Unfortunately I cannot provide you with a brand preference as I haven’t used them enough to make a proper decision. Both brands are professional and respected so if you need an answer, go with whichever one is more affordable as you’ll need a fair amount for 525 sq.ft.
If you’re not too fussed with minor stains from oil then save yourself the hassle and go with a standard cement grout from either brand, if you want peace of mind and an in-built sealer, go with those two.
Hope that helps.
Hello Carl,
I am currently having a pool and overflow spa being built in my backyard. I have glass tile being placed in my both my pool and glass tile. Do you have any recommendations what grout to use considering the glass tile will be exposed to the elements i.e. uv rays and water from the pool. I know there is cement grout and epoxy grout out in the market for glass tile. I am interested in epoxy grout for its durability. Do you recommend any specific grouts for glass tile for swimming pools. Looking forward to your input. Thank you!
Hi Jason,
Most epoxy grouts like Spectralock should work great with your application. The only thing to consider would be the grout color as lighter colors may be affected by strong U.V rays when used in exterior applications like your spa pool. This means the grout may get lighter in spots.
Hope that helps,
Carl.
Hello Carl,
I have a unigue application for grout in that I am building a play feature with stacked sandstone boulders, a scramble of sorts. I only want the bottom of the boulders to be grouted together as the boulders are stacked on top of each other (up to four) and have intentional gaps between them (not to exceed 4″). I would like the grout to be as thin and strong as possible so that there are not globs of it on the feature. Is epoxy grout an option or is it a waste of money to use in this application?
Thank you
Hi Jane,
Epoxy would be overkill and pretty difficult to use in this application. I’d just use a basic sanded grout and it should work fine. As long as the boulders are mounted firmly the grout will be solid and not crack.
Hi Carl,
Very interesting info on your site. We are in UK and have a shower room where the floor tiles are textured, specifically chosen to provide a non slip surface which is great. We had the misfortune to chose a company who used a very poor tiler. I wish I had done the work myself as in the rest of our house, but too late to worry about that now. About 5 years ago I replaced the silicone sealant and grout used by the tiler around the edge of the shower as it was mouldy and leaking, with epoxy grout which has worked a treat. Now one of the tiles has some very slight movement and I am considering regrouting the rest of the shower floor with epoxy. When doing the original edge job I used masking tape to restrict the area of grout that could get on to the floor tiles as scraping excess grout off did not seem likely to work. However I wonder if you have some tips about how to get the excess grout off a rough tile rather than try to mask each grout line. The tiles are quite large, about 15 inches by 24 inches and the shower floor is only one and a half tiles wide and long so there isn’t a lot of grouting to do except around the drain where they have been cut to fit the slope into the drain. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Best regards
Chris
Hi Chris,
Some dish washing liquid poured into your washing up water will greatly help clean up the epoxy off the tile. Also, use as hot water as you can stand in your wash bucket. Those two tricks will greatly help washing up and should hopefully lift the epoxy off the rough tile without too much problems. Lastly, a microfiber towel can be used to wipe the tiles dry.
You can also use a grout release formula like Aquamix Grout Release and apply it to the tiles. Only do this if the tiles are extremely rough, otherwise just use the washing up tips.
All the best.
Hi Carl,
I am considering having “Rectified Porcelain Tiles” 10mm thick, 9.5 inches wide by 47 inches long, installed everywhere in my 1600 square foot home. The base floor is concrete slab.
The tiles are “Rectified Porcelain Tiles”. The claim is that “Rectified Tile Makes For Razor Thin Grout Lines And A Very Clean Look”.
I would like to use epoxy grout because of its superior stain resistance.
Will a razor thin epoxy grout line work okay or should the tiles be spaced so that the widths of the grout lines are at least 1/16″ inch?
At 72 degrees Fahrenheit, approximately how long is the typical working time with Epoxy Grout.
Hi Mitchell,
Most epoxy grouts work between 1/16″ to 1/2″ (1.5 to 12mm). I’m not sure what size “razor thin” qualifies as but I would avoid going too small for many reasons, the main being that the epoxy grout won’t perform properly if there’s not enough of it in the gap.
Hi Carl,
Thank you for the information. I am also considering electric heat under the tiles. The base floor is concrete slab. Is there a particular brand and specification for Epoxy Grout that will work best with heated floor tiles? Would it be best to use a wider gap between the tiles, say like 1/2″, so that the Epoxy Grout will have room to expand and contract with floor temperature changes?
Or is the width of the gap just a styling preference consideration and the width does not affect the ability of the Epoxy Grout to resist cracking?
Thank you so much for the wealth of guidance and information! I am installing a combination of brushed stainless steel and glass tile around a bathroom mirror. The tiles are irregular, pebble shape and flat, @ 3/8″ thick. The grout lines are also irregular ranging from 1/16″ to 3/8″. I am concerned about the grout scratching the stainless tiles during installation. I thought epoxy grout might be my answer until I read your comment about grit in very fine grout lines. What grout would you recommend for Not scratching the stainless? Thanks in advance!
Hi Carl, we have a 2nd floor ensuite bathroom application of 12×24 ceramic tiles with 1/8” to 1/4” tile spacing. Working from memory I remember the installer building upon the builder subfloor, then a plastic layer, then the heating wire then the tiles upon the adhering cement compound. Over time the traditional grout applications (and repairs) have performed poorly, cracking and coming loose leaving gaps.
Subsequent consultations have been met with a shrug blaming lack of subfloor. Tiles are well set, no loose tiles – just broken grout lines always in need of cleanup and frequent repair.
Don’t want to cut out and pull up the floor. Will epoxy grout provide better strength and durability mitigating this potential initial installation issue? If so, any hints on preparation for the epoxy grout (replacing traditional grout) prior to application? Many thanks.
Hi Allan,
99% of the time cracking crack is a subfloor issue. Either too much deflection or the tiles are moving. The 1% is the grout was over-watered during clean up or mixing and is too brittle.
Epoxy grout is much stiffer and more resistant to movement so it can be a good thing to try first – it may just fix the issues you are facing.
I have written extensively about grout removal on my website. Just use the search bar above to find all the articles. You definitely want to remove all the old grout before applying the epoxy. You want as much epoxy in those grout lines as possible to bind up the tiles.
There’s also an article about epoxy grout you can read, I’ve divulged all my best tips I’ve learned over the years in using it.
All the best.
Hello,
Thanks so much for all the useful information. We are currently in the middle of 2 bathroom renovations and have decided to use epoxy grout. When researching whether to use epoxy grout or silicone caulk where the walls meet we could not find a clear answer. Can you share your thoughts?
Thanks so much!
Hi Joana,
Great Question, thanks for asking it.
Silicone should always be used on any changes of plane; wall meets wall, wall meets floor, wall meets ceiling. This is because those separate surfaces move seasonally and silicone is flexible enough to withstand the movement without breaking.
Make sure you use 100% silicone and not caulk as it’s not flexible enough and degrades quicker.
All the best for your project, appreciate you stopping by.
Carl – really appreciate the helpful article. At one point you mentioned making and using small batches. Since I’m a diner and this will be my first time using epoxy grout this sounded like a great idea. Would you mind going into a little more detail on how to measure the parts a & b so that each batch works effectively?
Carl, great read and information, one question is I’m doing a bathroom with small pebble tile, how do you calculate the usage for that type of tile floor?